Through the course of our 26 hours on the train, she makes us a flask full of aromatic jasmine tea using a fancy infuser, makes space on the table diligently when she senses it is time for us to eat, chastises us for buying bad quality and cheap corn chips - signifying her disapproval by making a large cross sign with her arms - and even offers to pay for the ice cream at a scheduled stop as we struggle to tell the vendor on the platform that we don't have exact change.
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